Article:   In Search of Excellence 

By Betty Tapping

Note: This article was first published in Chatter, magazine of the African Violet Society of Canada, Volume 36, Number 1, Winter 1986 and reprinted in Volume 56, Number 3, July-September 2011. Reprinted with permission. If you would prefer to read it as a PDF file, it is available here: In Search of Excellence

Many times I’m asked how I grow so many show plants in our apartment – so I will try to share some of my ideas with aspiring ‘Queen” winners. I’ve gleaned some wisdom from the experiences of others. For instance – I’ve learned well John Brownlie’s first advice to me – “Be selective in what you grow” – Mainly, though, I have learned from the trial and error method.

First, I have limited space and limited time to devote to growing, as I work full- time for the Etobicoke Red Cross. My goal then is to grow excellent show plants – but in as uncomplicated a fashion as possible.

Space of course is always a problem – but if you arrange your growing so that approximately a quarter of your plants are at each of four stages – clumps starter plants – 4 inch pots – and growing on for show, you will be well organized. To best utilize space, I place show plants – raised on squatty pots, directly under the lights. This allows for the 4 inch pots (next show’s potential winners) front and back on the trays. Smaller plants and clumps get the odd spots – some trays between light stands, etc.
Pot size is important – a general rule for showing would be to use a pot approximately one third the diameter of the plant. They show very well in azalea pots –4, 5, and 6 inch, or in 6 inch bulb pans which are squattier than azalea pots.

Plant size is not an all important factor for show plants. It is well to remember, however, that should two plants be equal in terms of symmetry, floriferousness, condition, quantity and colour of bloom – the larger would be judged the best. There is a danger in growing them too large as leaves then tend to droop, spoiling the overall attractiveness of the plant. Strive for a well- balanced plant with bloom in proportion to the size of plant.

Which plants to grow? Sadly, most of us develop a discerning eye only from experience. One good bet is to watch for the consistent show winners. Some plants do perform better than others. Also it’s so easy to get carried away by hybridizers descriptions and the number of new varieties of violets put on the market each year. Don’t forget some of the old favourites that are still very, very beautiful.

We only have to look at the A.V.S.A. scale of points for judging to see that symmetry of growth is of prime importance. A plant that grows naturally in a flat circle gives you a good start. Good leaf and bloom colour is very important. A word of caution – don’t decide by a plant’s first bloom, or in the heat of sum mer. At second blooming and the coolness of fall your first assessment may change. I have given away numbers of plants only to see them later, grown beautifully to a mature plant.
For each show it is a good idea to grow on two standards of each colour group, a few variegates, minis, semiminis, trailers and species. They will not all grow as perfectly as you’d like, but at least you will have a choice of classes to enter.

Again, don’t get carried away by the many new introductions. For instance, I love fantasy type bloom, but in my experience many are not stable and revert, partially or fully to plain colours, so be a little wary.

Unless you have a place to prepare potting soils and a source for the ingredients, it is probably a good idea to buy them already mixed. I use Fishers’ formula and find it does an excellent job – much superior to soilless mixes I’ve tried. Two benefits – a mix with soil holds moisture better, with the end result I have to water less frequently. Also soil naturally contains trace elements which are required to optimum balanced plant growth.

There are many types of fluorescent tubes you may choose, and while some growers swear by special growth tubes, I find the combination of one cool white and one warm white tube hard to beat, as well as most reasonable in cost. An automatic timer should be used for consistency of light amount and for your convenience. Violets will grow and bloom nicely with 12 hours of light – twelve hours of dark, but to encourage heavy blooming, gradually increase light to 14 hours and then to sixteen hours for seven to eight weeks prior to show. It is important that plants have eight hours of darkness.

Excessive dryness is harmful not only to plants, but to ourselves. A cool vapour humidifier is an excellent way to in crease humidity, or your trays may be lined with heavy duty polyethylene to hold water. Plastic trays work very well and are also attractive.

African Violets grow best in a temperature range of 65 to 75 degrees. A few degrees above or below should not be harmful, but be sure to keep plants out of direct drafts of hot or cold air. Remember also, that in timing your bloom for show that the cooler your growing conditions, the longer the time necessary. If you have a choice of growing area – choose cool rather than hot – bloom is noticeably larger and brighter in colour.

Basic watering rules – be consistent and thorough. I prefer to bottom water in individual saucers. Over-watering is the most common cause of problems or failure. While plants can tolerate occasional over-saturation, roots that are continually soaked will die from lack of oxygen. The weakened plant is then subject to attack by crown rot. Excess water should be poured off one hour after it is applied. Remember to let soil surface dry before adding more. Water temperature is most important – should be barely warm or tepid – within 10 degrees of room temperature.

Nitrogen, phosphates and potash are the three basic elements needed by plants as they put on new growth. Everyone I speak with seems to have a favourite fertilizer – some prefer liquids, others soluble powder, some organic, others non-organic. Whichever you choose – be sure to follow directions. My own preference is as follows – I alternate Peters 20-20-20 with Peters 12-36-14, using one quarter teaspoon to every gallon of water – plus one drop of Superthrive to each gallon. Too much fertilizer causes leaf edges to turn brown in otherwise good growing conditions, It may also cause a bubbly effect on young centre leaves.

The technique of disbudding plants is really quite simple and does produce more even growth and significantly more bloom. After I’ve assessed a plant as being worthy to grow on for show, I once a week will remove blossom stalks by simply pinching back to within one inch of the leaf axil. Continue this routine until seven or eight weeks prior to the show, depending on your conditions, at which time you will find a real surge of bloom. One caution – disbud ding tends to increase the incidence of sucker growth – so check your plants regularly and remove suckers while small enough that no big scar or space will result. Even with all this preparation, don’t expect 100% success. I still have plants let me down at show time, but I’m sure you will appreciate the improvement in their appearance, as well as the extra bloom produced.

A word about minis and semi-minis – I either disbud them for a short period – two months limit – or forego disbud ding. Prolonged disbudding results in oversize leaf formation. These little delights will respond as nicely and bloom heavily if grown fairly close to the lights. Trailers also have a nice habit of blooming consistently, and I have not felt the need to disbud, but I have known growers to do so and get spectacular results. Probably worth a try one of these days!

If your trailer tends to bunch in the middle, do try removing some leaves and perhaps a crown or two. It won’t hurt and will make for more even growth, and better distribution of bloom.

When you finally exhibit your prize plants you will be thrilled by the appreciation people show for your effort and the consistent care you’ve giver them will have been worthwhile.

A word of caution – careful packing and care in transporting plants to the show is of prime importance. A plant is judged as displayed – I’ve had the devastating experience of accidental dumping a box of my best plants on the garage floor – and many other odd things will happen – like the time Bud had emptied my room temperature water into the humidifier and refilled the pail with cold. As I was watering the variegates turned brown right in front of my eyes.

So you see – I have no secret formula for success – it’s a bit of luck and quite a great deal more of consistent care – and if the results are not perfect, take them to the show anyway. It also helps to have a supportive husband and friends who will pitch in to water or whatever when I travel to shows. Good luck in your quest for growing excellence!

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